First Impressions
The first spray of XS (2018) delivers an immediate jolt of invigorating freshness—a crystalline burst of mint and citrus that feels almost effervescent against the skin. This isn't the subdued, polite freshness of modern aquatics; it's brighter, sharper, more alive. The bergamot and lemon provide citric brightness while mint adds a cooling, almost electric quality that fans of the original 90s formulation describe as having a distinctive "static" character. It's the olfactory equivalent of that crackling energy you feel before a thunderstorm—clean, charged, and unmistakably aromatic.
This is Rabanne's 2018 attempt to recapture lightning in a bottle, quite literally. The original XS became a cult favorite in the 1990s, and reformulating such a beloved fragrance is always a high-wire act. One wrong move and you alienate the faithful while failing to capture new converts. The opening suggests Rabanne understood the assignment.
The Scent Profile
After that bracing opening settles—and it does take a few minutes for the mint to calm its enthusiasm—the heart reveals itself with unexpected complexity. Juniper berries bring a gin-like botanical quality, slightly resinous and aromatic, while coriander adds a spicy-green facet that prevents the composition from feeling one-dimensional. Geranium weaves through with its slightly rosy, slightly minty character, bridging the gap between the explosive opening and the more grounded base to come.
This middle phase is where XS (2018) establishes its aromatic credentials—that dominant 100% aromatic accord isn't just marketing speak. The fresh spicy element (registering at 71%) manifests most clearly here, as coriander and juniper create an herbal-spicy backbone that feels masculine without resorting to the heavy-handed pepper or cardamom found in many modern men's releases.
The base grounds everything with rosemary, oakmoss, and sandalwood—a triumvirate that would feel classic if not for the way they're handled. The rosemary extends the herbal-aromatic theme from opening through drydown, creating unusual coherence. Oakmoss provides that subtle mossy quality (16% of the accord profile) that nods to fougère traditions without going full barbershop. Sandalwood adds creaminess and woody depth (44% woody accord) that keeps the fragrance from floating away entirely into abstraction.
The overall development is linear in the best sense—this isn't a shape-shifter that turns from citrus bomb to amber monster. It's confidently aromatic from start to finish, with each phase adding dimension rather than contradiction.
Character & Occasion
The data tells a clear story: this is a spring and summer champion, scoring 100% and 90% respectively for those seasons. It's easy to understand why. That minty-citrus opening thrives in warm weather, feeling like an instant cool-down in a bottle. But the 72% fall rating suggests versatility beyond typical summer scents—the herbal-woody base gives it enough substance to transition into cooler weather without feeling out of place.
Winter, at 28%, is clearly not its natural habitat, and that's perfectly fine. Not every fragrance needs to be a four-season player.
The day/night split is even more decisive: 96% day versus 45% night. This is fundamentally a daylight fragrance, ideally suited for office environments, casual weekend wear, and any situation where you want to smell fresh and put-together without making a statement. That 45% night score suggests it can stretch into evening casualwear, but don't expect this to carry you through formal evening occasions.
This is a fragrance for men who want something reliably pleasant, versatile, and uncomplicated in the best sense of that word.
Community Verdict
The r/fragrance community, based on 32 opinions, gives XS (2018) a positive reception with a sentiment score of 7.8/10—solid if not rapturous. The praise centers on one key achievement: this reformulation comes remarkably close to the original 90s formulation. For a community that often treats reformulations with deep suspicion, this is high praise indeed.
Users specifically highlight that fresh, aromatic citrus character with its crisp "static" quality—that distinctive electric energy that made the original memorable. They appreciate the versatility and wearability across seasons, and notably, several mention that the 2018 version offers more reliable quality than hunting down vintage bottles, which may have degraded over decades or command premium prices.
The criticisms are measured but honest: it's not quite as good as the original vintage version. Performance isn't extensively discussed, which typically suggests adequate but not exceptional longevity and projection. The community consensus seems to be that while purists might still prefer hunting down pristine vintage bottles, the 2018 version offers a smart compromise—capturing about 85-90% of the magic without the vintage market hassles.
How It Compares
The similar fragrances list reads like a greatest hits of masculine aromatic freshness: Egoiste Platinum by Chanel, Encre Noire Sport by Lalique, Cool Water by Davidoff, Allure Homme Sport Eau Extreme by Chanel, and La Nuit de l'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent. This places XS (2018) squarely in the aromatic-fresh category, though it leans more herbal-citrus than aquatic.
Against these comparisons, XS (2018) distinguishes itself through that distinctive minty brightness and the juniper-rosemary backbone. It's fresher than La Nuit de l'Homme, more aromatic than Cool Water, and less overtly sporty than the Chanel entries. It occupies its own space—classic without feeling dated, fresh without being generic.
The Bottom Line
With a rating of 4.01/5 based on 678 votes, XS (2018) achieves something many reformulations fail to accomplish: respect. It's not trying to reinvent the wheel or chase current trends. Instead, it honors its heritage while delivering a thoroughly wearable, versatile aromatic fragrance.
Is it the best aromatic fresh scent on the market? Probably not—those Chanel comparisons exist for a reason. But it offers excellent value as a daily wear option, particularly for those who appreciate the aromatic-herbal-citrus profile over sweeter or more aquatic interpretations of masculine freshness.
Who should try it? Men seeking a reliable, office-appropriate scent that works across three seasons. Those who loved the original but don't want to gamble on vintage bottles. Anyone building a fragrance wardrobe who needs a solid daytime aromatic that won't challenge or confuse but will consistently deliver fresh, put-together vibes.
It's not groundbreaking, but sometimes dependable excellence is exactly what you need.
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