Into the Temple: Anubis by Papillon Artisan Perfumes

First Impressions

The first spray of Anubis feels like stepping into a candlelit temple where incense smoke mingles with the scent of aged leather-bound manuscripts. This isn't the polite, powdery amber you'd expect from a fragrance marketed as feminine—it's something altogether more commanding, more visceral. The opening announces itself with authority: warm spices dance atop a molten amber foundation while leather lurks in the shadows, waiting to make its presence known. Named for the Egyptian god of the afterlife, this 2014 creation from Papillon Artisan Perfumes carries an appropriate sense of mystery and gravitas, challenging expectations from the very first moment it touches skin.

The Scent Profile

While Papillon keeps the specific note breakdown close to the chest, Anubis reveals its architecture through a carefully orchestrated interplay of accords. The fragrance is built on a throne of pure amber—rated at 100% intensity—that radiates warmth and depth throughout its entire evolution. This isn't a fleeting amber accent; it's the very foundation upon which everything else is constructed.

The warm spicy accord, registering at 87%, weaves through the composition like threads of gold, adding complexity and preventing the amber from becoming too heavy or monolithic. These spices feel ancient rather than culinary—think ceremonial rather than kitchen cabinet. They provide lift and interest without overwhelming the senses.

What truly sets Anubis apart is the prominent leather accord at 73%. This is where the fragrance stakes its claim in unconventional territory for a feminine scent. The leather here isn't harsh or aggressively masculine; instead, it feels burnished and well-worn, like a treasured jacket or the cover of an antique book. It adds texture and depth, creating a fascinating tension against the amber's sweetness.

Speaking of sweet—that accord registers at a modest 39%, enough to soften the edges without turning Anubis into a gourmand. The musky element (37%) adds sensuality and skin-like warmth, while an unexpected herbal note at 29% introduces an aromatic quality that keeps the composition from becoming too heavy or cloying. As the fragrance settles, these elements meld into a rich, complex skin scent that feels both timeless and utterly distinctive.

Character & Occasion

The data tells a clear story: Anubis is a cold-weather devotee. It scores 100% for fall and 97% for winter, making it an ideal companion when temperatures drop and you want a fragrance with substance and presence. Spring sees it at just 27%, while summer—unsurprisingly given that amber-leather-spice profile—registers a mere 15%. This is emphatically not a light, breezy scent for warm days.

More intriguingly, while the day/night split shows 50% for daytime wear, the fragrance truly comes alive after dark, scoring 89% for evening occasions. This makes perfect sense given its rich, enveloping character. During the day, Anubis makes a bold, confident statement—perhaps best reserved for creative environments or occasions where conventional office-appropriate fragrances need not apply. But at night? It transforms into something captivating and mysterious, perfect for dinners, cultural events, or any situation where you want to leave an impression.

The "feminine" designation on the bottle becomes almost irrelevant in practice. This is a fragrance for anyone drawn to amber-dominant compositions with backbone and character, regardless of gender. It suits those with confidence, people who understand that fragrance can be an extension of personality rather than a gender marker.

Community Verdict

The r/fragrance community holds Papillon in high regard, and the sentiment toward the brand's offerings is decidedly positive, scoring 8.5 out of 10. Based on 44 opinions, several themes emerge consistently.

The praise centers on Papillon's "high quality juice and excellent craftsmanship," with community members appreciating the brand's "unique artisanal and natural formulations." For a niche house, the pricing is considered fair—an important consideration when artisanal perfumes can easily veer into the stratospheric. Users particularly value the "interesting and complex scent profiles" that Papillon consistently delivers.

The criticisms are practical rather than quality-related. Limited availability and distribution means hunting down bottles can prove challenging. The niche appeal cuts both ways—while devoted fans appreciate the unconventional approach, these aren't crowd-pleasers designed for mass appeal. Some users note that performance can be variable across different Papillon fragrances, though with an impressive 4.29 out of 5 rating from 919 votes, Anubis itself seems to satisfy on this front.

The community identifies the ideal Anubis wearer as collectors, those seeking natural and artisanal perfumes, and adventurous souls open to unconventional scents. This isn't a safe blind buy for someone wanting a typical feminine amber—it's a statement fragrance for those willing to explore beyond the mainstream.

How It Compares

The fragrances cited as similar to Anubis read like a who's who of sophisticated amber compositions: Chypre Palatin by MDCI Parfums, 1740 Marquis de Sade by Histoires de Parfums, Jubilation XXV Man by Amouage, Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens, and Timbuktu by L'Artisan Parfumeur. Notice that several of these are marketed toward men or are unisex—further evidence that Anubis transcends simplistic gender categories.

What distinguishes Anubis in this elevated company is its particular balance of leather and amber, combined with Papillon's commitment to artisanal, natural ingredients. Where Ambre Sultan goes more resinous and Timbuktu more woody-smoky, Anubis stakes out territory that feels simultaneously ancient and contemporary.

The Bottom Line

With a 4.29 rating from nearly a thousand voters, Anubis has clearly resonated with those who've experienced it. This is not a fragrance for everyone, and that's precisely the point. Papillon has crafted something distinctive and uncompromising—a genuinely artisanal amber-leather composition that refuses to play by conventional rules.

The value proposition is solid for what you're getting: quality natural ingredients, complex construction, and a truly unique scent profile that stands apart in an oversaturated market. Yes, you'll need to seek it out, and yes, you should sample before committing. But for those drawn to rich, amber-driven fragrances with character and depth, Anubis deserves serious consideration.

This is a fragrance for cool evenings and bold personalities, for those who view perfume as art rather than accessory. If that sounds like you, Anubis awaits.